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A wet or damp road just adds danger – tarmac that grips perfectly in
the dry could be like an ice rink in the wet. But making safe progress
in the wet is still possible – Here are some simple tips to keep in
mind and help you make your journey safer.
- Smoothness is the key. Moving away from a standstill, accelerating,
cornering and braking must be done smoothly to avoid overloading the
tyres. Pull away at low revs releasing the clutch slowly and smoothly,
then gently wind on the throttle. On high-revving bikes with a surge in
the power – sports bikes and two-strokes especially – short shift to
stay below the point where more power kicks in unless you really need
to. Torquey bikes can cause tyres to spin unexpectedly too. Use more
back brake than usual, and squeeze the brakes gently, progressively
loading the front tyre. You shouldn’t apply as much force as you would
in the dry. Turn in to corners gently too, taking a sweeping line that
requires very little lean to keep your bike on the fat part of the
tyre.
- Leave more room. You can’t brake as hard or manoeuvre sharply on
wet tarmac, so you need to double the safety margin you have to ensure
you can deal with unexpected hazards.
- Keep your head up. Knowing the condition of the surface in front is
important, but don’t fixate on it. Being fully aware of your
surroundings puts you in a better place and puts you more at ease.
- Read the road surface. Oil, diesel and mud is even more slippery
when wet, and shiny-looking surfaces will offer less grip as rough
guide. Shell-grip and chipping-based road surfaces are better. Avoid
puddles where safe to – they could conceal pot holes and other dangers,
and your bike’s tyres could lift clear of the road at speed
(aquaplaning).
- Warm your bike up first. It sounds silly, but modern bikes running
on a fast idle may respond in unexpected ways until the engine is warm.
Less engine braking and snatchy or fluffy pickup are common – things
you can do without when you’re trying to be smooth.
- Check your tyres. Good tread depth is essential, but if you have to
ride in the wet regularly you may need to choose tyres more suited to
the task – sports touring tyres are designed to grip better on wet
roads than sticky, lightly-treaded sports tyres, for example. Set them
to the pressure recommended by the tyre manufacturer – don’t be tempted
to raise or lower them, it won’t help.
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The correct riding gear is a must have in any situation, not only when riding your bike socially, ripping around your local track or performing stunts. If you hit the ground it doesn’t matter whether you are a beginner or a pro, it's the gear that makes the difference.
The basic elements of good riding gear are: helmet, gloves, jacket,
back protector, pants and boots. Whenever purchasing any one of these,
you have to put safety, comfort and cost into balance. some people have
fashion as the main priority, but trust us when we say that nobody
cares how nice you look when picking you off the ground. Now that you
have this picture in your head, let’s move on to what you have to do to
avoid it.
If you've surfed the Internet looking for at least one element of
riding gear you've seen there is a lot to choose from. It probably
confused you more than what you were in the beginning. Well, if you
didn’t stop at the first thing that showed up on your monitor, then you
still have a chance to be qualified as a conscious rider.
Basic Rules
The right gear is the one that makes you more visible in traffic.
Adapt the gear to the weather - the right glasses or visor for when the
sun might blind you, mesh jackets for good ventilation during summer.
The gear should be as one with your body - don’t buy bigger or smaller
sizes than what fits you, because your chances of have an accident
might increase.
Choose the specific gear for your riding category: sport, street, touring, motocross, cruiser etc.
It’s better to go and try the helmet at a dealership or know your exact
size before purchasing it online. Check if it complies with the
Australian safety standards and has the Australian safety standard
sticker on the helmet. If it does not, the Police can book you for not
wearing a helmet
The Helmet
As you know by now (if not, shame on you), there are different types of
helmets: full-face, flip-up (modular), open face, off-road/motocross
and half helmet, each of them designed for different riding categories.
Whether you ride a cruiser, sports, sports tourer or a Dirt bike, when
choosing the helmet there are some common features to take into
consideration.
When trying a helmet on, wear it for about five minutes and then take
it off. While you have it on, try and introduce a finger between the
helmet and your forehead. The right helmet should not allow you to do
that and also it shouldn’t put pressure on your neck. Rotate the helmet
back and forth and to the right and left. The helmet should move the
skin on your head and face as it moves. If the padding is moving over
your head, then you need to try a smaller size. You should also check
your field of vision as well to ensure you can see properly.
Also, the full face helmets should allow you to introduce one finger
between your chin and the front side of the helmet. After you take the
helmet off, see if it provided you any discomfort and even use a mirror
to look for any red marks on your face and forehead.
If the helmet fulfills the above mentioned requirements, ask about
additional information. The interior should be made of EPS liner system
(it absorbs the impact force without transmitting it to the head), with
fog shields and chin vents to prevent misting. A removable lining is
also recommendable, as it allows for it to be removed and washed
easily. The helmet should be manufactured from a single piece to
prevent its penetration by a sharp object and to distribute the impact
force.
And last, the helmet’s fastening system. Double D is the safest and the easiest.
The Gloves
We have to stress the importance of gloves when riding a motorcycle, I
always see people with no gloves riding around Brisbane and think how
silly. Cold, wet or over heated fingers can be a cause of losing
control of your ride. When choosing the gloves make sure that there is
a wrist strap, double stitching at the seams, hardened protection on
the knuckles and that there are tops on the fingers. A rubber strip on
the index finger is useful when wiping your visor clean. It’s better to
test them by holding a motorcycle handlebar. Some gloves have a
removable lining, but make sure it is fixed and does not pull out when
you take the gloves off. We don’t have to mention the importance of
choosing the right size. Leather gloves are the most recommended for
the summer season as they offer good abrasive resistance, while for the
winter is very important to have gloves with extensions to keep the
cold air out.
The Jacket
Whether it's mesh, textile or leather, the jacket is all about comfort
and protection. You should be able to lock the sleeves to your wrist
and that the seams on the shoulders and elbows have at least one row of
concealed stitching in addition to the exposed stitching. A summer
jacket has a shorter, thinner liner, while a winter jacket has a
longer, detachable liner. If it's an all season jacket, make sure you
have zip open vents in the front and back of the jacket. Removable
linings are recommended, but they should fasten securely. At least one
interior pocket should be provided for keeping the wallet and personal
things in. If you don’t have money to buy a separate one piece riding
suit, then it’s better to buy a jacket with a full length zippered
pants connector.
The Pants
Most riders often put the pants on the bottom of the list when they
begin purchasing the riding gear, as they wear them only when going on
long distances. However, they are just as important as the jacket. That
is why most rules from choosing the jacket also apply to the pants.
They have to be armored, hard on the knees and soft on the hips. You
should be able to lock them around your waist for a better fit and to
keep the cold air out. If you wear big motorcycle boots under your
pants check that the bottoms are wide enough to accommodate them. The
lining, stitching and the zippers should abide the same rules as the
jacket.
 The Boots
Whether they are made from leather, rubber or plastic, used for racing,
touring, cruising or motocross, you should always buy boots that are
above ankle height. Make sure they fasten securely. When you try them
on, wear them for about 10 minutes to see the level of comfort they
provide to your feet. They should have a shifter pad on the sole or
heel shifts. Soles should be flexible lengthways but rigid width ways
and at least 4mm thick, without indents included. The armour should be
made of foam padding and plastic shields. Boots with thick abrasion
resistant uppers are recommended, as well as water resistance. It’s
better to try and get on a motorcycle to simulate shifting gears.
Remember!
Never buy a second hand helmet as it is very difficult to see any previous damage. The helmet should be replaced every 5 years.
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As the evenings draw in, we have no choice but to spend more time riding in the dark. And as daylight turns to the black of night, all motorcyclists face new challenges - most not seen until the last moment.
The onset of twilight reduces vision, even on full beam, the headlight seems to give no extra penetration into the dark. Commuters, dozing at the wheel or rushing home for tea, have yet to notice the change in light.
As colours fade, cars merge into the scenery, making it tougher to see them and as full darkness arrives they'll have trouble picking your lights out of all the others around. So if you want to stay safe in the dark there's no choice but to slow down and reconsider your riding style.
Measured caution
Riding at night demands a great deal of smoothness, but to be smooth it's necessary to read the road ahead. All sorts of information can be picked out of the darkest night, but you have to work all the harder with what information can be obtained. While erring on the side of caution, practice spotting clues as to where the road goes and what you're likely to encounter and you can give yourself an extra edge.
Read the signs
Road markings, lines of cat's eyes and signs are picked out by the weakest edges of a headlight's beam and can tell you in which direction the road's going - and to some extent will indicate the severity of bends. They're useful, but often won't let you know about the kink right before the proper left - so use them as guidance only.
The spacing of white lines can clearly be picked out at night and work as possible hazard indicators. Extended centre-lines are a warning of junctions and not only the chance of something pulling out, but also poor surfaces where vehicles from minor roads and plant crossings have been dropping muck and debris.
If you can lift your vision from the headlight's beam, you might see telegraph poles and trees outlined against the sky, telling you where the road goes next, or pick out a distant headlight that will dazzle in the next few minutes. Every scrap of road info can help you.
1. Always use a clear, pristine visor at night, as even the smallest of scratches will ‘starburst' light from headlights to hinder vision, especially in the rain. If you are involved in an accident in the dark while wearing a tinted visor, this may be counted as ‘contributory negligence', affecting the value, if any, of any insurance claim you might make.
2. Headlights aren't much use if misaligned, so set them to the give the best penetration ahead, without blinding oncoming traffic and that in front of you. If riding with a pillion, set the lights to compensate for the extra weight. More front compression damping will stop forks diving so much, plunging bends into darkness as you brake.
3. Obviously a clean headlamp lens is going to let more light through than a dirty one, so regularly wash off any build-up of cack. If you ride a lot in town, you may not need your lights to ride by, but others will need them to pick you out. Similarly, keep rear lights clean - a minor matter you may think, but with potentially serious consequences.
4. On very dark roads and in misty conditions, dipping from main beam from time to time can help a rider pick up on other vehicles in the area. The knowledge that there's a potential dazzler on the way can be invaluable. Dipping also attracts the attention of others in the area, enhancing safety.
5. When overtaking cars in the dark, flick full beam on as soon as you pass the driver's door. Leaving it any later ups the chances of not seeing something in the middle of the road (debris, animals) until it's too late. The best advice for overtaking is to know what's coming up before you move, eg how far to the next bend or junction?
6. Staying close to the kerb is normally a good place to be if you're approaching a right hand corner as it will improve your vision through the bend, but at night hugging the kerb isn't recommended as it's even tougher to see holes and other hazards so ride a little more towards the middle of your lane and slow down to compensate for your poorer vision. In other respects position as usual, with a slow in, quick out approach the best blend of speed and safety.
7. Cornering while you're fixated on the centre of the headlight's beam makes for extremely slow going - you'll be looking only metres ahead and you will automatically back the throttle off. Try looking to the outside edge of the light spread and beyond - it's surprising how much you're able to see - and turning your head will turn the bike.
8. Anticipation is everything. Use every available clue so you can match your speed to the conditions. Expect a suicidal Kangaroo over every crest, an unlit Land Cruiser at every junction and a pile of wallaby innards on every bend, until you know otherwise. Anticipation allows you to maintain good speed without resorting to heavy braking...
9. Slow for corners using the gearbox and gentle braking; banging on the front brakes will make the headlight point downwards and destroy your forward vision. Be ultra-progressive and use a smear of extra back brake to keep the bike and headlight more level. Finish braking well before the bend so it's illuminated while you're in it.
10. An exciting technique to use at night, especially down hedged or walled lanes, involves ‘chasing' the point at which the roadsides ahead converge. If this appears to be coming at you, lose some speed, and if it's moving away, accelerate if all else is well. Between bends, scan well ahead to pick up signs of oncoming traffic.
11. At night our senses are more easily addled and there is a greater risk of misreading situations. So always apply caution and don't charge blindly into the unknown. If you're unsure about where the road goes next, slow down until you're certain. And always be on the lookout for wobbly drivers who've forgotten to put their lights on.
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Isn’t your bike’s riding position just something you have to put up with?
No - there is a wide variety of small adjustments you can make to even the most comfortable bike to make it fit your body shape, riding style and riding needs better. It’s worth the effort because being uncomfortable or unsettled on a bike brings on fatigue and mental tiredness far quicker. A more comfortable rider is a faster, smoother, safer rider.
How much is this going to cost me?
Many of these adjustments cost nothing at all. And every dollar spent on making your bike fit you better pays back every single time you throw your leg over it. Stuff like adjustable rear-sets and posh seats cost the tune of between $300 and $400. Handlebar risers and replacement clip-ons with reduced angle are in the $200-$350 range, while double-bubble screens and heated grips make a lot of sense for $100 or so.
What about my pillion?
A twitchy passenger is as big a pain in the arse. If they are uncomfortable, you will almost certainly join them as they slam into your back when braking hard, break your ribcage when dialling in too much acceleration, or twitch around like a flea-ridden wallaby. A good grab-rail makes for a happy pillion, but only if they know how and when to use it.
Anything else that may affect my riding?
If you’ve got leathers that pinch at the joints and a helmet noisier than a Hyundai Accent at 100kph with the windows down, then you’ll be chucking money away on rearsets and such like. Leathers are like shoes, they will stretch and shape to your body, but if they’re tight to start with no amount of wearing-in will help.
1. Adjust clutch and brake levers so they’re at their most comfortable by loosening their bracket clamps and rotating them until they are in the right place. This is when the levers fall in line with your forearms, so there’s no bend in the wrist with fingers resting on the levers. Some switchgear assemblies can also be swivelled for the ideal thumb position.
2. Too much throttle free play – the amount the twistgrip is turned before the revs rise – will cause an aching wrist as you twist it more than you need to. There should be a couple of millimetres free play before the throttles open. For fine adjustment use the sleeve and locknut on the cable. Make sure throttles snap shut when you’ve finished.
3. Clutch and front brake levers should be adjusted for finger reach to reduce tendon ache in the fingers and wrists. Most bikes today have adjusters at the lever’s base. If yours don’t, you could consider aftermarket performance levers as replacements. Keeping cables well lubed can have a big effect on preventing tired hands.
4. Foot controls can be adjusted to suit your physique (large feet, long legs etc). Slack (excessive movement) and angle of lever can be tuned out of the gear-change mechanism using the adjuster threads on the linkage rod. The rear brake lever can be set at a comfortable height via a screw and locknut setup. See owner’s manual for exact details.
5. Clip-on-type handlebars can be raised to a comfortable height and reach with aftermarket riser kits, or replaced with fully-adjustable items. Traditional one-piece handlebars can be changed for different styles, or be loosened at the clamp and moved forward or backward to a more comfy position.
6. Fitting rearsets is usually about gaining ground clearance – and many people find having feet higher and further back more comfortable, especially for bracing against windblast. But the latest multi-adjustable versions can also allow for lower or more forward positions, letting you get set up for different disciplines – touring, trackdays etc.
7. Suspension can be adjusted to give the rider’s bum and spine an easier time. A correctly set suspension shouldn’t see you bucked out of the seat. A click or two less compression and rebound damping usually does the job. Conversely, adding more pre-load reduces the rear shock’s amount of travel with a pillion or luggage.
8. Heated grips are a blessing in cold weather by providing invaluable warmth which in turn helps you maintain a high level of concentration. Hot grips also extend the summer glove season for finer control. Enduro-style ‘brush guards’ can also be fitted to handlebars to give extra protection and keep the chill off the digits.
9. Windblast from a low screen or non-faired bike stresses neck and shoulder muscles. An aftermarket screen, whether double-bubble, aerofoil, or simply a higher touring version can reduce windblast. On a naked bike, a small aftermarket fairing can make a big difference to making long journeys more bearable.
10. Aftermarket gel seats mould to the rider’s bum shape to keep cheeks sweet over big distances. They help support the spine, too. Alternatively, there are replacement seat specialists like Corbin, or there’s the option of having the shape and foam density of your current seat altered by local upholstery specialists.
11. As tyres are the first line of suspension, pressures play a bigger part in comfort than you might imagine. Too hard and they transmit wrist-and-spine jarring shocks, too soft and they make steering heavy, and thus hard work on the shoulders and arms. Refer to the owner’s manual for correct pressures, or contact a TeamMoto tyre centre.
12. Posture is all important for a comfier ride. Ride tensed – like you have a broomstick wedged between bum and neck – then you’re causing every muscle to strain and every bump through the seat is harmful. The idea is to relax so when sitting on a bike it feels totally natural. Arms should be slightly bent at the elbows to absorb bumps.
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I have been riding for about 26 years and have found that the most important thing to learn that will keep you safe while riding you motorcycle is to have a very alert mind combined with constantly observing of the immediate traffic and weather situations around you.
For me, road riding has never been about being on the limit, braking, knee down action or the rear tyre wiggling while nailing the throttle on a corner exit. I've always liked to save that stuff for the track and if the truth be known, be it lack of balls or just common sense, from an early age, I have had this early safety cut off switch in my head when riding on the public roads.
If like me your idea of fast road riding is to get from point A to point B safely, in the shortest possible time, while still having fun then read on and I'll talk you through what really works for me. But remember every road/situation changes no matter how many times you have ridden on it...Parked cars/weather/lighting/traffic speed/people pulling out, everything is different from from one to the other I'd like to start with out of town roads and the marvellous 'vanishing point'. This is the spot where you can no longer see where the road goes. The closer this point appears, the tighter the corner. The further away it appears, the wider the corner. This, coupled with roadside signs and road markings, is a good indication as to what type of corner might be imminent. So, if I were approaching a fairly open right hand corner, I would position myself as far to the left as was safe and avoid any traditional braking. Instead I'll just click back a gear or two. This gives a small amount of engine braking but also I then have instant acceleration as the corner starts to open out. For many reasons, whenever it is reasonably possible I always try to use the gears for braking.
Firstly as the idea of fast road riding is to keep your average speed up, if you brake more than is necessary the momentum you have lost then has to be built up again. The scrooge in me tells me this uses more fuel and brake pads so not only do you save time you save cash as well.
Getting back to our corners, if I'm approaching a left turn I'll do the same thing with engine braking but depending on what the white lines say in the middle of the road, I will set myself up as far to the right as is safe. The object of the exercise is always to scrub as little speed off as possible, which in turn saves time. Using the gears for braking can take a bit of practice but it's very effective providing you keep things smooth. Remember, if you see an oncoming vehicle, it’s important to create a buffer. This will keep you out of the head-on zone and out of harm’s way
Remember though, the more you increase lean angle, the more the engine braking will increase. On slower corners when I do have to use the brakes, I like to get my braking done early, then get into the right gear in plenty time for good acceleration on the corner exit. Again, depending on what the white lines say I like to 'straight line' roads as much as possible. Yes straight lines. You see, back in 1980 my High School math's teacher Mr. Evans taught me the shortest distance between two points was a straight line and that has served me well ever since. Later that year he also tried to explain long division but that was considerably less successful.
When it comes to city centres, particularly with schools around them, for me the only option is staying at the mandatory speed limit and keeping your wits about you. The risk factor here when going any faster is too high. Apart from us bikers keeping the excellent reputation we deserve, the consequences of wiping someone out doesn't bear thinking about.
Finally body position. Climbing all over your bike on the road, apart from looking naff is a waste of energy. However shifting your weight smoothly from side to side and gently weighting the inside footpeg will ease your bike through corners. And leaning your upper body forward (put your head towards the mirror) and to the inside of the corner will also help while giving you a feeling of more control.
Things to remember
• Use the 'vanishing point' in conjunction with road signs and markings to anticipate corners.
• Try to use your gears for gradual braking before corners.
• Straight line sections of road when it's safe and legal.
• Give drivers time to see you before passing them.
• Use the clearest lane while on the Freeway for steady filtering.
• Use subtle body positioning to help cornering.
• Beware especially careful when approaching Volvos.
I have had many different bikes ranging from small bikes to race reps and I do sometimes ride fast but....hopefully safe and that's what counts, remember that you are NOT the only road user when riding your pride and joy!
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One of the most difficult parts of riding a bike is changing gears. On a race track a bad gear change can lose you valuable seconds, on the road a botched gear change looks messy and you'll feel a bit embarrassed.
If you're planning on taking pillions with you then a smooth gear change is all the more vital for pillion-comfort and avoid those head banging sessions.
Changing up the gears
First you need to find the ‘biting’ point – this is the point on the clutch where as you release the lever you begin to get drive. Using the biting point when changing up the gears can make it a lot smoother. "A lot of people when they start will pull the clutch fully in and completely shut the throttle when they want to change to a higher gear, but this is unnecessary, All that is needed is for you to pull the clutch in about an inch or so, to engage the clutch and just slightly roll off the throttle so the revs are no longer rising. Don't release the clutch fast to start with, feed it out like you would when setting off to get used to it.”
Changing down the gears
Shifting back down the gears can often catch out new or less experienced riders. Changing down too many gears and then releasing the clutch too fast can cause the back wheel to lock and even skid. The key to a good down change is blipping the throttle and precise use of the clutch. When you change down the gears the engine speed rises, so if you blip the throttle just before you change down the gear this will enable you to match the engine speed and allow you to engage the lower gear smoothly. Also make sure you feed the clutch out slowly - just ‘dumping’ the clutch will make the bike lurch forward and could even lock the back wheel.”
Clutch-less upshifts
You’ll hear about this from more advanced riders and it’s a technique often employed by racers. But clutchless upshifts are something that you should ignore if you've never ridden a geared bike before as it is something to learn once you have mastered using the clutch. The theory is that when you are approaching the point where you want to change up a gear, put a little pressure on the gear lever. When you're ready to change up release the throttle slightly and the bike will go in to the next gear. Again don't fully close the throttle, only close it slightly - just a little flick of the wrist works fine. Changing up the gears without using the clutch is a lot easier on the clutch and gearbox, but it takes time to perfect it. It's not something that should be attempted until you are comfortable changing gears with the clutch."
Clutch Adjustment
Most bikes now have everything set up fine for the average rider, but if you have small hands or very large hands, you’ll want to make sure the clutch lever span is adjusted so it’s comfortable for you. “If you’ve got small hands you’ll want to adjust the clutch so the biting point is closer to the lever so you don’t have to stretch to get going. Likewise if you have large hands you might want to adjust the biting point so it’s further away from the bar, to stop you getting cramp. If you are a new or inexperienced rider and have any questions about riding or techniques that you would like us to cover in future eNewsletters, then contact Scott Brinkman at mrs2@teammoto.com.au and we’ll do our best to help.
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Town and city roads can be some of the most difficult and hazardous for bike and scooter riders. If you use your bike for commuting everyday then chances are you’re already doing a fair bit of town riding. It really is very different to being out on the open road. Here are a few tips to smoother safer rising.
• Stay in a responsive gear. Riding in a responsive gear is vital. Most riders will tend to ride in a higher gear to keep the revs down, but this means you may not have have sufficient throttle response should you need to react quickly. You’ll want to be in a nice responsive gear should anything happen and you need to accelerate out of the way. If you notice something in your mirrors and it looks like it’s coming towards you, then a responsive gear will get you out of danger quick enough. so if you have to suddenly stop you don’t have to change down as many gears, to get going again, which can be a awkward if you have to move again very quickly.
• Cover the clutch lever and brake pedal. It might sound obvious, but keeping your hands or feet over the controls can stop you panic braking and locking the front wheel should something happen. I would say keep your fingers over the clutch and your foot over the rear brake lever. “Hovering over the clutch will mean if you have to make an emergency stop you shouldn’t stall the bike. I would say don’t cover the front brake because from experience when you do this and have to brake you tend to keep the throttle on, so just stick to covering the back brake and clutch.”
• Position yourself for a good view. If you’re behind a large vehicle like a van or a bus, then they’re going to struggle to see you if you sit directly behind them, so alter your position. When riding behind larger vehicles you should alter your position for maximum observation and so they can see you. Generally it is best to drop back a little more than you normally would so the driver can see you in both mirrors. You have to position yourself to be seen.
• Keep an eye out for pedestrians and parked cars. Another tip that you may think is obvious, but keeping an eye out between parked cars could give you that split-second you need for when that pedestrian steps out without looking. Definitely keep an eye out for pedestrians stepping out between parked cars. Also if a bus has stopped at a bus stop go steady because people tend to cross the road in front of the bus where they can’t see what is coming from behind the bus. Look under taller parked vehicles to see if you can see feet, that could be an indication pedestrians are about to step out.
• Awareness is key. You need to know what is ahead of you and where you want to go, but you also need to know what is behind you and remember what you’ve overtaken. If you overtook a cyclist and look in your mirrors to find he isn’t there then where has he gone? Did he turn off, or is he about to undertake you and cut you up. Also look out for any clues possible, use reflections in shop windows to see round things and look at where peoples hands are on their steering wheel, this could offer clues to where they want to go.
• Finally, when stopping at traffic lights, choose either the left or right wheel track to stop in. The middle of the road is always covered with oil or water and you do not want that all over your tyres, when approaching the next corner.
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One of the trickiest skills to learn on a motorcycle is the ability to ride and handle your motorcycle at walking pace. In fact this is the time when novice riders can be most at risk from dropping their motorcycle, particularly if you're trying to execute moves like a U-turn. Here are some tips that should help you master the technique of slow riding.
• Back brake. Avoid using the front brake during slow manoeuvring. If you are in the middle of a U-turn and panic grab a handful of the front brake you will almost certainly lock the wheel and the only direction the bike is going to go is down. Instead trail the back brake. This means constantly applying light pressure to the back brake lever.
• Throttle. Try to keep the throttle slightly open at all times. Remember the throttle isn’t just to go fast; it’s also a brake if you release it. Try and keep the throttle constant. If you feel like you’re going too slow and you’re going to fall over or have to put your foot down, just use the throttle to power out of it and regain the bike’s stability.
• Clutch. Make sure you’re always slipping the clutch. Never fully engage the clutch because then you lose control of how fast you want to go using the throttle.
• Look. One of the things you will constantly hear in motorcycling is look where you want to go, and it applies as much to normal road riding as it does to slow manoeuvring. Always make sure you’re looking where you want to go and not directly in front of your front wheel.
If you are a new or an inexperienced rider and have any questions about riding or techniques that you would like us to cover in future columns, then contact Scott Brinkman at the TeamMoto Riding School and we’ll do our best to help.
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